Mack
Hall
Mhall46184@aol.com
One Day in the Life
of a Chicken Nugget
King: Forks?
Becket: Yes. It’s a new instrument…for pronging meat and
carrying it to your mouth. It saves you
dirtying your fingers.
King: But then you dirty the fork?
Becket: Yes. But it’s washable.
King: So are your fingers. I don’t see the point.
- Becket, Jean Anouilh
In
One Day in the Life of Ivan Denisovich,
Shukov always removes his hat when eating.
As a long-term prisoner in one of Stalin’s Siberian gulags, his purpose
is to work and suffer until he dies.
Cold, malnourished, and overworked, there is no reason for Shukov to
take off his cap over his evening bowl of fish heads and other, more mysterious
bits of solids floating in the hot water except for this: Shukov is determined
to maintain his sense of self.
Most
of the other prisoners have completely surrendered to dehumanization. Shukov, too, can do nothing against the
tyranny of Communism, but he can choose to remember who he is. That he takes off his cap in the grim, cold
chow hall causes him to stand out.
Shukov
also eats with a spoon, a forbidden object, and not with his hands or a wood
chip. He cast the spoon from a scrap of
aluminum in another camp some ten years before, and has managed to keep it
concealed from the perpetrators of progress.
The illegal spoon is another symbol of Shukov’s self-hood, of
civilization.
He
can do nothing about his ugly, padded uniform made from scraps. His number, Shcha-854, painted on his cap and
trousers, is the identity imposed upon him.
But inside, and through subtle acts, he keeps his dignity.
The
gulag’s chow hall anticipates modern dining in America: men wear their caps in
restaurants and eat mysterious substances with their hands, and their formless clothing
is badged with the alias identities of the Communist factories where it is
made.
Quite
often moderns stand as petitioners before windows or at stainless-steel
counters in cinder-block, bunker-like structures for food and drinks whose
antecedents, shipping, and handling are questionable. Consider the now common chicken nugget, now
made by many purveyors of comestibles, which is not a nugget although it may
share some strands of DNA with a long-dead chicken.
Fred
Turner, the man who in the 1980s invented the first chicken nugget for
McDonald’s, died last week. A generation
has grown up eating this staple of fast food and cafeteria service. Mr. Turner’s chicken nugget is finger food,
perfect in a country where the possession of knives, forks, and spoons, even soft
plastic ones, by The People can be suspect.
Hamburgers
(not from Hamburg), tater tots (made from real tots?), tacos, wraps (not your
granny’s coat), fish fingers (one wants to see that fish in the wild), and
steak fingers (ditto for that cow), are all ordered from pictures and sometimes
through loudspeakers: “That’s be a snakefinger basket, big ol’ chemical
fizzy-drink, and fries! Oh, and Prisoner
#6 is to report to the delousing shed!”
In
our sad world, are dishes, forks, napkins, menus, identifiable foodstuffs, and
sitting at a table with one’s hat off really important?
In
Jean Anouilh’s fictionalized play about the relationship between King Henry II
and Thomas Becket, the king is unfamiliar with forks, an otherwise trivial
matter which foreshadows his own uncivilized behavior later on.
-30-
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